Microplastics Analysis — (EU) 2023/2055 / ISO 24187 / Water and Cosmetics

What Is Microplastics?

Microplastics analysis identifies and quantifies synthetic polymer particles in a sample. In COSMETICS, the purpose is to detect the presence of intentionally added synthetic polymer microparticles restricted under (EU) 2023/2055. In ENVIRONMENTAL SAMPLES, microplastics found in water, sludge and soil are determined through filtration, separation and spectroscopic identification.

Purpose of Microplastics

The purpose is to demonstrate regulatory compliance on the cosmetics side and to determine the pollution level on the environmental side. (EU) 2023/2055 bans intentionally added microplastics on a phased schedule.

Which Products Is Microplastics Applied To?

Peeling and scrub products
Make-up and care products
Toothpaste and oral care products
Wastewater and surface water samples
Treatment sludge and soil samples

In Which Sectors Is Microplastics Used?

CosmeticsChemistryRetailEnvironmentPlastics & Rubber

Standards Related to Microplastics

ISO 24187 (principles for microplastics analysis)
TS EN ISO 5667 series (water sampling)
CEN/TR 17519 (microplastics measurement approaches)
ISO 4484 series (microplastics in textiles)

Microplastics Conditions

Identification: Polymer type is determined by FTIR or Raman microscopy
Size range: The reported size range sets the method's detection limit and must always be stated
Pre-treatment: Organic matrix removal and density separation
Contamination control: Plastic contamination from the laboratory environment is monitored; a blank specimen is mandatory

Equipment for Microplastics

FTIR microscope and Raman microscope
Py-GC/MS (for mass-based determination)
Density separation equipment
Filtration systems and steel sieves
Stereo microscope

Sample Requirements for Microplastics

Market formulation and INCI list for cosmetics
Water samples in glass or metal containers; plastic containers must not be used
Specimen volume is determined by the detection limit
Contact with plastic equipment must be avoided during sampling

Duration of Microplastics

Pre-treatment (organic matter removal) and particle-by-particle identification are time-consuming; analysis usually takes between a few working days and a few weeks. Identification time increases markedly as particle count rises.

Microplastics Procedure

1The specimen is collected in a suitable container and contamination precautions are applied.
2The organic matrix is removed by a suitable method.
3Plastic particles are concentrated by density separation.
4Particles are collected by filtration.
5Polymer type is identified by FTIR or Raman microscopy.
6Particle count, size and, if required, mass are reported.

Microplastics Acceptance Criteria

In cosmetics, the acceptance criterion is the absence, under the conditions defined by the regulation, of the synthetic polymer microparticles restricted by (EU) 2023/2055. The restriction takes effect on a phased schedule by product category; the date and scope applicable to your product are confirmed from the current text. There is no general limit for environmental samples; the result serves monitoring purposes.

Evaluation of Results

The result is limited to the size range the method can detect: a method that cannot see below 20 microns will not report particles below that size. The statement "no microplastics found" must therefore always be read together with the size range and detection limit. Plastic contamination from the laboratory environment is a real risk, and blank specimen results are given in the report.

Microplastics Report

Specimen identification, matrix and volume/mass taken
Pre-treatment and separation method applied
Identification technique and size range
Particle count and size distribution by polymer type
Blank specimen results
Detection limit

Accreditation

EUROLAB holds internationally recognised accreditation obtained from accreditation bodies party to the IAF and ILAC multilateral recognition arrangements, under ISO/IEC 17025 for laboratory testing, ISO/IEC 17020 for inspection and surveillance, and ISO/IEC 17021-1 and ISO/IEC 17065 for system and product certification. This chain ensures the reports and certificates issued are accepted worldwide.

Whether this test can be offered within accredited scope depends on your product and the standard applied; since accreditation is method-based, the scope is confirmed in writing at the quotation stage.

Scope and authorisations

Related Regulations

(EU) 2023/2055 (REACH Annex XVII — synthetic polymer microparticles)
(EC) 1223/2009 Cosmetic Products Regulation
2000/60/EC Water Framework Directive

Kozmetik Testleri — What Does This Testing Field Cover?

The section below describes the field that the Microplastics test belongs to; the conditions and acceptance criteria of this particular test are given in the sections above. The scope specific to your product is confirmed in writing at the quotation stage.

Cosmetics testing shows that a product stays microbiologically safe throughout its use, delivers the performance it claims and contains no restricted substances. There is NO PRODUCT APPROVAL in this family: no authority approves a cosmetic product; responsibility rests entirely with the manufacturer and with the responsible person established in the EU.

This responsibility model shapes how the field works. Before the product is placed on the market a product information file (PIF) is prepared, a safety assessment (CPSR) is carried out and notification is completed. Inspection comes afterwards and asks for the file; if the file is incomplete the product is withdrawn from the market. Test reports form the evidence base of that file.

On the microbiological side there are two different questions and each is answered by a separate test. The CURRENT microbiological quality of the product is measured by enumeration and testing for specified microorganisms. The EFFECTIVENESS of the preservative system is examined by deliberately inoculating the product with microorganisms (challenge test): can the product resist repeated contamination throughout its use? A jar of cream is touched by a finger at every use; the preservative system must cope with that.

On the performance side, claim substantiation studies are carried out. For sunscreens, determination of SPF and UVA protection and measurement of water resistance are mandatory and are the basis of the value declared on the label. Evidence is also produced by in vivo or in vitro methods for claims such as moisturisation, appearance of wrinkles, hair care and colour retention.

On the chemical side, banned and restricted substances are screened: heavy metals, prohibited colorants, preservative concentrations, UV filter levels and contaminants such as nitrosamines. Products containing nanomaterials carry a separate notification obligation.

The BAN ON ANIMAL TESTING is the most defining constraint of the field. Animal testing cannot be carried out on finished products or ingredients, and a product tested on animals cannot be placed on the market. Alternative in vitro methods (reconstructed human skin models, cell culture based tests) are therefore at the centre of the field, and toxicological assessment rests largely on existing data, read-across approaches and in vitro results.

Stability and packaging compatibility studies determine shelf life and the period after opening (PAO). The interaction of the product with its packaging is also assessed: an active substance may migrate into the packaging, and substances that should not be present may pass from the packaging into the product.

On the process side, good manufacturing practice is demonstrated through ISO 22716; this is separate from product testing but a mandatory part of the file.

Method groups in this field

Microbiological quality
Enumeration of aerobic mesophilic bacteria, yeasts and moulds; testing for Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans and E. coli.
Preservative efficacy
Resistance of the preservative system to repeated contamination by challenge test (ISO 11930).
Sun protection
In vivo SPF determination, in vitro UVA protection determination, water resistance and critical wavelength measurements.
Chemical analysis
Heavy metals, banned and restricted substances, quantification of preservatives and UV filters, contaminant screening.
Safety assessment
In vitro irritation and sensitisation methods, toxicological risk assessment, exposure calculations.
Stability and compatibility
Real-time and accelerated stability, packaging compatibility, PAO determination, sensory and physicochemical monitoring.

Commonly confused in this field

There is NO CE marking on cosmetics; conformity is demonstrated through the PIF, the safety assessment and notification.
The responsible person must be established in the EU; unless the exporter arranges this, the product cannot be placed on the market.
Microbiological quality and preservative efficacy are different tests; a product that comes out clean may still have a weak preservative system.
The animal testing ban covers ingredients too; animal test data generated for another market creates a problem of use.
An SPF claim must be supported by measurement; a formulation change requires a new measurement.
A change of packaging may require the stability and compatibility studies to be repeated.

Which decisions these results support

The product information file and the safety assessment
Verification of the preservative system design
Substantiation of SPF and efficacy claims
Determining shelf life and the period after opening
Compliance with destination market restrictions for export

Related Tests

Frequently Asked Questions About Microplastics

Our formulation has no plastic microbeads — is analysis needed?

The restriction covers not only microbeads but all synthetic polymer microparticles meeting the definition; some film-forming and thickening polymers are also within scope. Reviewing the INCI list is usually the first step, with analysis carried out when needed.

Is it enough for the result to say "not found"?

No; the size range and detection limit used must be stated. Without this information the result cannot be compared and does not provide a solid basis for a compliance claim.