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Footwear and Leather Testing · Chemical Analysis

DMF

ISO/TS 16186 (footwear — determination of dimethyl fumarate)TS EN ISO 4044 (sample preparation)
Footwear and Leather Testing laboratory work

What Is DMF?

DMF analysis determines whether the product contains residue of dimethyl fumarate, used as an anti-mould/desiccant agent. The specimen is extracted with a suitable solvent and measured by GC-MS.

Purpose of DMF

The purpose is to show the product is free of dimethyl fumarate, known to cause severe skin irritation and allergic contact dermatitis. The substance was restricted in the EU after causing mass skin injuries linked to imported furniture and footwear.

Which Products Is DMF Applied To?

  • Leather shoes and boots
  • Leather bags and leather goods
  • Leather sofas and upholstery
  • Leather clothing
  • Products shipped with desiccant sachets

In Which Sectors Is DMF Used?

FootwearLeatherRetailConsumer ProductsFurniture

Standards Related to DMF

  • ISO/TS 16186 (footwear — determination of dimethyl fumarate)
  • TS EN ISO 4044 (sample preparation)

DMF Conditions

Extraction
With a suitable organic solvent, under the conditions defined in the standard
Measurement
GC-MS
Limit of quantification
The method's limit of quantification must be below the 0.1 mg/kg limit

Equipment for DMF

  • GC-MS
  • Ultrasonic extraction bath
  • Analytical balance
  • Mill

Sample Requirements for DMF

  • A specimen from every component of the product (leather, lining, insole)
  • A desiccant sachet, if present, must be analysed separately
  • The specimen must be sent in an airtight container
  • Approximately 1 g specimen

Duration of DMF

The extraction and GC-MS measurement determine the analysis duration; results are typically available within a few working days.

DMF Procedure

  1. 1The specimen is separated into its components and ground.
  2. 2It is weighed and extracted with a suitable solvent.
  3. 3The extract is filtered and concentrated.
  4. 4Dimethyl fumarate is measured by GC-MS.
  5. 5The result is calculated in mg/kg.

DMF Acceptance Criteria

REACH Annex XVII Entry 61 sets a 0.1 mg/kg limit for dimethyl fumarate in articles or their components. A result above this limit is non-compliant.

Evaluation of Results

Findings are assessed per component; DMF most often migrates from desiccant sachets shipped with the product. If the sachet is not analysed, the source cannot be identified.

DMF Report

  • Specimen identification and components analysed
  • Method applied
  • Result (mg/kg) and limit of quantification
  • Regulatory limit compared against

Accreditation

EUROLAB holds internationally recognised accreditation obtained from accreditation bodies party to the IAF and ILAC multilateral recognition arrangements, under ISO/IEC 17025 for laboratory testing, ISO/IEC 17020 for inspection and surveillance, and ISO/IEC 17021-1 and ISO/IEC 17065 for system and product certification. This chain ensures the reports and certificates issued are accepted worldwide.

Whether this test can be offered within accredited scope depends on your product and the standard applied; since accreditation is method-based, the scope is confirmed in writing at the quotation stage.

Scope and authorisations

Related Regulations

  • (EC) 1907/2006 REACH Annex XVII Entry 61

Footwear and Leather Testing — What Does This Testing Field Cover?

The section below describes the field that the DMF test belongs to; the conditions and acceptance criteria of this particular test are given in the sections above. The scope specific to your product is confirmed in writing at the quotation stage.

Footwear and leather testing assesses the physical durability and chemical safety of a product together. Footwear is a MULTI-COMPONENT product: the sole, upper, lining, insole, heel and bonding line are tested both individually and together. One component being good does not mean the product is good; failure usually appears where components join.

On the physical side, the most common field failure is SOLE-UPPER SEPARATION. Bond strength is therefore the most critical measurement in the field and is a direct indicator of the bonding process (surface preparation, adhesive selection, pressing conditions). Next come sole abrasion and flex resistance: a shoe is flexed hundreds of thousands of times over its life.

Slip resistance is the most important parameter for safety and its measurement depends on the surface: wet ceramic, oily steel and dry floor give different results. Slip resistance is therefore reported not as a single number but with the surface and the direction of slip stated.

A separate body of work applies to protective footwear, and this is the most commercially critical distinction. Toe protection (impact and compression), penetration resistance, antistatic behaviour, heat and cold insulation, electrical insulation and fuel resistance are assessed under personal protective equipment requirements. CE is mandatory for these products and the category must be chosen correctly; an ordinary footwear test report does not satisfy that file.

On the chemical side, CHROMIUM (VI) has a special place in leather. The chromium (III) used in tanning can oxidise into chromium (VI) during storage and ageing; that is, a leather that was compliant at production may exceed the limit months later. The time of measurement and the history of the sample therefore affect the result, and measurement after ageing may be required.

Other chemical items are aromatic amines from azo dyes, pentachlorophenol, short-chain chlorinated paraffins, dimethyl fumarate and phthalates. These items come from REACH restrictions and brand restricted substance lists.

There is NO CE marking on consumer footwear; the obligation runs through material composition labelling, compliance with chemical restrictions and general product safety. Labelling has a rule of its own: the type of material used for the upper, the lining and insole and the outer sole is shown by pictograms.

Comfort and functional claims (waterproofness, moisture management, breathability) are supported by separate tests, and these claims require evidence if used in marketing copy.

Method groups in this field

  • Bonding and strength

    Sole-upper bond strength, seam strength, heel attachment strength, strap and buckle strength.

  • Abrasion and flexing

    Sole abrasion, flex resistance (dry and at low temperature), insole abrasion.

  • Slip resistance

    Forward and backward slip measurements on wet ceramic, oily steel and dry floor.

  • Protective properties

    Toe impact and compression resistance, penetration resistance, antistatic behaviour, heat and cold insulation, fuel and chemical resistance.

  • Leather chemistry

    Chromium (VI), azo dye amines, pentachlorophenol, short-chain chlorinated paraffins, pH and fat content.

  • Comfort and function

    Waterproofness, water vapour permeability, moisture management, colour fastness and the effect of perspiration.

Commonly confused in this field

  • Footwear claiming a protective function falls under PPE legislation and requires CE; a consumer footwear test report does not satisfy that file.
  • A chromium (VI) result depends on the age of the sample and its storage conditions; leather compliant at production may exceed the limit later.
  • Slip resistance is not a single number; it cannot be interpreted without stating the surface and the direction.
  • A result obtained for one component does not cover the whole product; the joints are tested separately.
  • Labelling rules run on material pictograms; an incorrect pictogram causes problems in customs and market surveillance.
  • A waterproofness claim is not verifiable unless the test used and the number of flex cycles after which it was measured are stated.

Which decisions these results support

  • Compliance with the brand restricted substance list
  • The PPE category and CE file for protective footwear
  • Supplier and lot-based acceptance control
  • Root cause analysis of field complaints (bond opening, sole separation)
  • Substantiation of functional claims

Related Tests

Frequently Asked Questions About DMF

We don't use desiccant sachets — is there still a risk?

Even if you don't use them directly, components from suppliers or other goods carried in the same container can be a source of contamination. The limit is very low (0.1 mg/kg), and even minor contamination is enough to exceed it.

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